Friday 16 November 2012

1972 - FROM KARACHI TO ISTANBUL (4)

CONTINUED FROM ........ 1972 -FROM KARACHI TO ISTANBUL (3)

We woke up early in the morning. My father took me along and we came out of the hotel. The name of the area . which came to know later on, was Kadikoy.
http://www.turkeytravelplanner.com/go/Istanbul/Sights/asia/kadikoy.html

The jetty from where the ferry boats were going to the european side of Istanbul, was not much far from where we were. It was very cold. We had worn, coat and overcoat. I had worn the brown coloured  woolen cap too, that could have been extended down to cover the whole face except eyes and nose.  I remember it used to be called the monkey cap in those days. Interestingly, my father never wore a cap during his stay in Istanbul.


Well as we came out to the Ferry boat jetty, first of all we got confused about everything. I mean from where to buy the tickets? because we were not too good in counting the local currency. Then from where to enter the waiting lounge, etc. etc.

Well, we managed to board the first ferry boat. It was my first time to board such a boat. The cold wind was almost cutting our faces. The weather was all cloudy, so the sea was quite rough. Almost all of the passengers were sitting inside the sitting hall, but my father was more interested in experiencing the thrill of the moment. So we two were standing in open part of the ferry boat. The wind was hitting us on one hand and on the other the dripplets of uproaring waves were also coming our way. Aloof of all this, my father was too busy in enjoying the Bosphorous view.

After about half an hour we reached the other side of the Bosphorous. We stepped out on the european soil for the first time in our life. It was an important moment of my life. First i had come out of my country, and now i had left Asian continent behind. History was in the making.

The name of the Ferry boat station was EMINONU.


We had already marked everything on our map. We had had to catch a bus to go to Eyup. I was almost lost in the scene around. As compared to the place where i had spent the first 17 years of my life, it was all too different around me. I was trying to adjust myself to the totally changed atmosphere around me. The traffic was totally opposite to what we were used to in Pakistan. The dresses of the people, the skin colours, the voices around us, the scenery, etc etc, everything was grossly different.

Hurriedly we managed to board a bus. I was totally shocked by seeing the discipline at the bus stop. All busses were arrayed in their allotted portions. The boards on the waiting shelters were exhibiting the numbers of the buses for that particular point. The passengers were standing in line, and were boarding the buses one by one. Evey bus was moving on instantly after being full. The next bus in the lane was moving ahead to take in the remaining passengers. There was no shouting, no pushing, no cursing. Everything was going on in a very disciplined and organised way. For me it was a totally different world.

Every bus was having two automatic doors. Everybody was boarding the bus from the back door. The other door remained closed. Nobody was trying to force way inside the bus. The bus conductor, wearing a blue coloured suit, with matching tie, was sitting just by the side of the entrance door. Everybody was paying for the ticket, and moving ahead. It was a scene i had never witnessed before in my life.

Everything was shocking me. I was almost mesmerised.

In the bus some people tried to talk to us, but my father just managed to speak out a few words in turkish. He showed them the address of Erdal Soyulu. They understood that we were asking them to tell us where to get down of the bus. Where there is no language, even then there is a language that people understand. I was witnessing that.

There were no separate compartment for ladies in the bus. Women too were boarding and sitting inside the bus side by side with the men. Interestingly, nobody was pushing or teasing or trying to touch them. I was not used to this in Pakistan. I asked myself, why Turkish men do not touch women , even when they can, and why do Pakistani men like to touch women in public. when they cannot. I could not answer this.
I remember i was too embrassed just thinking about my feelings if a woman would come and sit by side in the bus. Being a Pakistani we could not even think of that. Perhaps this was why i was getting too nervous and excited, just by thinking of some turkish woman sitting by me in the bus, whereas there was no chance for that, because my father was going to sit by my side. There was no third chair.

I noticed that there was a red button just above the front door of the bus. A couple of minutes earlier before arrival of a bus stop, the bus driver used to ask if there was anybody to get down on that particular stop. He used to open the front door only if some passenger was to get down at that bus stop. Otherwise the door used to remain closed. However, there was a small red button above the door, which could be pressed to let the driver know about the passenger wanting to get off the bus.

All doors were opened and closed automatically . by the bus driver.

We got off the bus, at some bus stop, when told by the fellow passengers to get off. It was the area of Eyup.
Once on the road, we tried to ask people on the road to help us. It was drizzling and too cold.



Thursday 15 November 2012

1972 - FROM KARACHI TO ISTANBUL (3)

It was a nice and comfortable train. As far as i can remember, there were just two compartments, which were going to turkey. The rest of the compartments were supposed to go till the Iran/Turkey border. Most of them were supposed to go upto Tabrez only. Within these two particular compartments, most of the passengers were tourists. Those were the days of the Hippies. and a big number of the fellow passengers were Hippies. They were too dirty.


One of them was David. He was English. He was not a Hippie. He was a nice fellow who was on a world trip. He did have a sleeping bag, and used to sleep on floor in train in that. I had seen a sleeping bag for the first time, and i liked it, but ofcourse there was no way to ask him to lend me his. He was just having a rucksag with him. I was too amazed seeing him travelling like that. I was thrilled.

The train reached Tabrez at night. It was the last major city in the western part of Iran. Most of the compartments were cut off at that station. Perhaps a couple of tourists boarded in our compartment from Tabrez.


The Turkish/Iran border was crossed at early in the morning, the next day. When i woke up, the train had already stopped, just inside the Turkish territory. Outside i could see thumps of snow, here and there. It was terribly cold, but sunny. For the first time in my life i had seen snow .The Turkish officials were checking baggages. Almost all of our bags were opened and thoroughly checked. Our passports were stamped. We were officially in Turkey now.

http://www.uncorneredmarket.com/photos/picture/6895067235/

I was thrilled because the last phase of the adventure was nearing.

I remember there was a sweeper in the train. In fact, i was too shocked to see a sweeper cleaning the whole compartment, twice a day. He was an employee of the Turkish Railways. My father tried to open dialogue with him. Our knowledge of turkish language was very limited. Even then , not through sentences, but through words he explained to the sweeper that we were going to Istanbul, and wanted to live there. But we were never in a position to understand what he used to say as his reply. He had written that on a piece of paper for us, but we could not decode that with the help of the books that we had then. Later on when we reached Istanbul and started understanding turkish a bit better, we understood what he used to ask us. What the sweeper had asked us was NE OLDU? (in turkish). It is a simple sentence which means WHAT HAPPENED? Thus he was asking us as to WHAT HAD HAPPENED THAT WE WERE GOING TO LIVE IN ISTANBUL. Unfortunately, we could not understand the question, for all the time that he remained in the train.

It was evening the same day, when we reached VAN. It is a beautiful city in eastern Turkey. There was a big lake by this city. The train was going to cross the lake. in a ferry boat. It was an unforgetable experience. The rails were till the side of the lake. The ferry boat was standing bound just in line with the rails. The rails on the land were just arraying with the rails inside the ferry boat. Slowly slowly the two compartments were pushed inside the ferry boat. We all passengers kept on sitting inside. The compartments were ultimately tied with iron chains. Once it was safe, we all came out of the compartments, and looked at the lake . It was a nice scene. The sun had already set, and it was dark.

I think it was a journey for about three or more hours. We reached the other end of the lake at around 9 pm. The compartments were once again pushed out of the ferry boat . the name of this end of the lake is TATVAN. The train continued its journey.

This is a present day video about how the train compartments have been loaded over the ferry boat while crossing the Van Lake.


We passed through Ankara early in the morning. It was all white. The snow fall had just started. It was soft. I loved to catch snow by taking my hand out of the window. My parents did not allow us to come out of the train at Ankara, because it was too slippery. But my father managed to go out and bring some eatables.

We were following the railway stations on our map. Not much distance was left to reach the ultimate destination.

We reached the station of  IZMIT. at evening. It was the last major railway station before Istanbul. Before that we had been through some very beautiful scenery, that i never forgot. Years later, i happened past through the same track (in 2004), and the whole scene of how we did pass through those mountains , 32 years, passed through my mind, as if i was watching the same movie once again.

It was getting dark. Istanbul was just at a distance of a few hour run from Izmit. Our parents started repacking our bags and luggages, which had become too untidy during this long train journey of around 3 days. Now i can feel the real sentiments of my father at that particular time. He must be very very thrilled. He was about to reach his destination. A goal , for which he had worked hard for around a year, and for which he had sold everything, is about to be achieved.  I remember i was too thrilled.
İzmit tren istasyonu sessizliğe büründü
İZMİT RAIWAY STATION

The train continued heading towards Istanbul. It was almost plain . On one side was sea. But it was dark, cold and raining. Mentally we had started preparing ourselves for the life outside the train. It was going to be an another thrilling climax of the adventure.

I think it was perhaps 9 or 10 at night, when our train reached HAYDARPASHA RAILWAY STATION. It was the end of the Asian side of  Istanbul, in fact of Turkey. It was the last railway station. The train stopped and we came out of the . It was a huge building. We did not know where to go from there. I remember that we had put all our bag and baggage on flour, in a huge waiting room sort of place. The roof was too high. The pillars were huge. I felt myself somewhat coming under the grandeur of the building.

http://www.whereist.com/haydarpasa-train-station/

İSTANBUL Haydarpasa Train Station
HAYDARPAŞA RAILWAY STATION



THE WAITING LOUNGE OF HAYDARPAŞA RAILWAY STATION ....THIS IS WHERE WE ALL SAT AFTER GETTING OFF THE TRAIN

Just out of the building, in front of us was sea. It was raining outside. There was a road passing across between the building and the sea. We did not know what to do next. I remember , we were all sitting on our baggage and it was too cold. My father was standing there. Almost all of the passengers of the train had gone away. We were alone in the room. My mother asked my father, "Where would we go now". Cool. as my father had always been. replied in a very relaxed tone of voice,"I DO NOT KNOW".

It was a scene and the dialogues that i never forgot. Interestingly, years later. in the year 1998. when i came to Northern Cyprus for the first time, with my wife and a year old son, my wife had also asked me the same question, after we had arrived at the Lefkosha city main entrance gate. Our baggage was just taken out of the bus. That was the last phase of our journey from Karachi to Lefkosha (North Cyprus). My wife had asked me the same question that my mother had asked my father 26 years ago. "Where will we go now", she had asked. I, as cool as my father was on that chilling November night at Haydarpasha Railway Station, 26 years ago. "I DO NOT KNOW", was my answer, because in fact just like my father who had never thought of what to do after reaching Istanbul. I had also never thought of thinking about my future in northern cyprus. Just like my father, i too had planned for reaching Northern Cyprus. What would be the next step, after reaching Istanbu /Northern Cyprus. My father had never cared about that, i too had not cared about that.

So he did not know what to do next, and 26 years later i too did not know what to do next.

Well, that night at the Haydarpasha Railway Station. my father took my elder brother along, and they went out of the building, and hired a taxi. The taxi driver took them to a nearby hotel. They returned back, and we all boarded the taxi, and reached the hotel, not very far from there. It was terribly cold.

Once in hotel, my father told me that next morning, i would be accompanying him to go out on the european side of Istanbul to find out the house of ERDAL SOYULU, the turkish guy who had given him his address months back in Karachi. His address was of Eyup quarter of Istanbul. It happened to be on the European side of Istanbul. We did know that for that we would have to cross the Bosphorus by a ferry boat. I was too excited, perhaps so was my father. My mother quickly arranged to eat whatever we did have with us. It was raining out, and none of us was in a position to go out to buy something to eat. It did not take much time for us to sleep, we were dead tired. Almost 15 days of hard adventurous travel had finally came to end. We slept.

CONTINUED ...... 1972 - FROM KARACHI TO ISTANBUL (4)

Wednesday 14 November 2012

PHOTOS OF HISTORIC WALL OF ISTANBUL



Bu sitedeki arkadaşlara çok teşekkürler

http://istanbulium.blogspot.com/2011/12/istanbul-kara-surlar.html


İstanbul Kara Surları ve Sur Kapıları


Malum eski İstanbul'u çepeçevre saran surları bilmeyen yoktur. Hiç yakından görmeyenler bile en azından yoldan geçerken görmüşlerdir. Hele surlara yakın yaşayanların pek çoğu çocukluklarından kalan, surların üzerinde, çevresinde geçirdikleri anıları biriktirmişlerdir. Surlar genel olarak Marmara Surları, Haliç Surları ve Kara Surları şeklinde üç bölümde incelenmektedir. Kara surları da Tekfur Sarayı'ndan Haliç'e kadar olan kısım ayrı bir dönemden kaldığı yahut ön surları olmadığından ötürü olsa gerek, Blakherna surları olarak ayrı incelendiği de oluyor.

Zeytinburnu sahil tarafında Marmara Denizi kıyısından başlayan Kara Surları dahilindeki esas surlar 4,80 m. genişlikte, yaklaşık 11-14 m. yüksekliğinde  ve 50 ile 75 m. aralıklarda burçlarla donanmıştır. Bugün, Zeytinburnu sahilinde bulunan Mermer Kule'nin hemen orada, yolun kıyısında ilk burç bulunmakta, buradan başlayıp Tekfur Sarayı'na kadar toplam 96 adet burç var olup bunlar haritada da işaretlenmiştir. Tekfur Sarayı'ndan sonraki kara surları Blakherna bölgesine girmekte olup 20 burç vardır ve bunlar haritada ayrı renkte tanımlanmıştır. Yine bu surlar üzerinde bulunan kapılar da farklı renkte işaretlenmiştir.


View Kara Surları in a larger map
Esas surların yaklaşık 13.5 m. önünde yine benzerlik gösteren bir de ön surlar vardır. Esas surların 2 burcu ortasına gelecek şekilde ön surlarda bir burç bulunmaktadır. Ön surların önünde 14 metrelik bir alan ve bunun önünde 17.5 metrelik hendekler bulunmaktadır.
41. Burç önünde bugün bostan olarak kullanılan hendekler
Surlar üzerindeki burçların bir kısmı sağlam olarak gelmiş yahut sonradan restore edilmiş, bir kısmı sadece bir duvarlı, bir kısmı ise sadece temeli bulunur halde gelmiştir. Burçlar bulunduğu konumun topografik yapısı, surun dönüşleri dikkate alınarak dörtgen yahut çokgen olarak inşaa edilmiştir.
16-17-18-19-20. burçlar
Sur üzerinde yer alan kapılar, dönemin ana yollarının şehir dışına çıkış yolları ile bağlantılıdır. Kapıların her iki yanından burç bulunmaktadır.
Ayvansaray Surları
Sur kapıları aynı zamanda bulunduğu semtlere adını vermiştir. Bunlardan Top Kapısı ve Edirne Kapısı araç trafiğine kapalı sadece yayalar geçebilir, Sulu Kule Kapısı son gördüğümde civarın inşaat alanına dönmesinden ötürü yaya trafiğine de kapalı, Mevlevihane, Belgrat, Silivri kapıları ile Yedikule kapısı araç trafiğine açıktır. Altın Kapı ise Yedikule Hisarı'na bağlantılı olduğundan zaten geçiş yoktur. Haliç'e yakın olan Eğri Kapı araç trafiğine açıktır. Ayrıca sur duvarları üzerinde kapatılan kimi kapıların izlerini görebilmekteyiz.
Blakhernai Surları
Yakın zamanlarda doldurulan hendeklerde; esas surlar ile ön surlar arasında kalan bölgede özellikle Yedikule ve Mevlevihane Kapısı hattındaki kısımın kimi bölgeleri bostan olarak kullanılmakta, İstanbul halkının yediği yeşilliklerin üretimi devam etmektedir.
Yedikule Surlari ve Hendek
Ayrıca Fevzipaşa, Vatan ve Millet caddelerine yapılan bağlantılar nedeniyle bu bölümdeki surlar zamanında yıkılmıştır.
1. Burç ve 1. Askeri Kapı'nın hemen yanından sahil yolu geçiyor.
Surların kimi bölgelerinde üzerine çıkıp gezme imkânı bulunmakla birlikte dikkatli olmakta fayda var. Ayrıca bazı bölgelerde "balici" olarak tabir edilenlerin mesken edindiği yerler bulunmaktadır. Surların iç tarafı kimi yerlerde sur dibine yapılmış evler ve oluşturulmuş mahalleler nedeniyle de gezilememektedir.

Silivri Kapısı, Silivrikapı (Pege Kapısı, Gate of Spring) Fotoğrafları:







1894 sonrası Silivri Kapısı
Mevlevihane Kapısı, Mevlanakapı (Rhesium Kapısı, Gate of Region) Fotoğrafları:






19. yy sonunda Mevlevihane Kapısı
Mevlanakapı ya da Mevlevihane Kapısı
Mevlana Kapısı
Belgrat Kapısı, Belgratkapı (Ksilokerkos Kapısı, Gate of Belgrade) Fotoğrafları:






Yedikule Kapısı (Tabak Kapısı, Gate of Yedikule) Fotoğrafları:





Altın Kapı (Yaldızlı Kapı, Porta Aurea, Golden Gate) Fotoğrafları:









Nicholas V. Artamonoff, Haziran 1935

Nicholas V. Artamonoff, Haziran 1935

Top Kapısı, Topkapı (Romanus Kapısı, Cannon Gate) Fotoğrafları:
Top kapısı

Edirne Kapısı, Edirnekapı (Adrianopolis Kapısı, Adrianople Gate) Fotoğrafları:


Edirne Kapısı İç Duvardaki Detay





Sulukule Kapısı (5. Askeri Kapı, Örülü Kapı, Pempton Kapısı, Taer-Tower Gate) Fotoğrafları:

Sulukule Kapısı Dış Görünümü


Sulukule Kapısı İç Görünümü
5. Askeri Kapı; Nicholas V. Artamonoff, Aralık 1936

Eğri Kapı, Eğrikapı (Kaligaria Kapısı, Crooced Gate) Fotoğrafları:


Kara Surları ve Burçlarından Fotoğraflar:

62. Burç, Topkapı

57-58 burçlar arasında ön burç

62. burç Topkapı


56. Burç

48. burç ve duvarlar, Mevlanakapı

47-48. burç arası duvarlar yakın görünüm, Mevlanakapı

47. burç

37. burç Silivrikapı

41. burç duvarları ve bostanlar

28-29. burçlar arası, Silivrikapı

26. burç ve ön burç, duvarları, Belgratkapı
24 ve 25. burçlar, Belgratkapı

22 ve 23. burçlar, Belgratkapı

24. burç, ön burç ile esas burç arası, Belgratkapı

Ön burç, 18-17 ve 16. Burçlar

18. Burç

17. Burç

16. Burç

16-17-18-19-20. burçlar
14-15. burç arası

14. burç ve hendekler

Sur önünde çocuklar

78. burç, Sulukule

77. burç, Sulukule

Edirnekapı-Sulukule Arası Surlar

Edirnekapı Surları

71. Burç, Topkapı

69 ve 70. Burç, Topkapı

Edirnekapı Surları

Edirnekapı Sur Duvarı Üzerinden Detay
27. burç ve ön burçlar

29. Burç

29. Burç

24 ve 25. burçlar, Belgratkapı
27 ve 28. burçlar arasındaki ön burç

5. burç, Yedikule

6. Burç, Yedikule

4. Burç, Yedikule

6. Burç ve Ön Burç, Yedikule

4. Burç
86. Burç İçi, Edirnekapı

Ayvansaray Surları:



Kara Surları Eski Fotoğrafları:
Eğrikapı Tarafındaki Surlar, 1960 Senesi.
Yedikule
Yedikule Surları
Topkapı


Topkapı-Edirnekapı Arası Surlar

Eğrikapı Surları
Eğrikapı Surları
Anemas Zindanları, Nicholas V. Artamonoff, Ekim 1936

Ayvansaray
Ayvansaray-Edirnekapı Arası Surlar, 19. yy